‘Gone Surfing’……it’s only taken 2 months

Well, its been a long time coming but today I went for a surf. An actual, real surf!  After coming back from California in November conditions along the coast here have been horrid. There have been the occasional day where the surf’s been alright, but nothing that I have seen that I’ve felt is worth getting cold for. Also, riding my Longboard at many of the sheltered beaches locally really possible because of the type of  waves and I resent driving for an hour and a half to find a bit of surf thats only remotely better! The short days don’t help either.

That’s winter though I guess – sometimes it can be great, other times is can be damn awful! This winter, without exception has been an awful one – typical, since this is my first UK winter in about 5 years!

The sun was shining today and there was barely a breath of wind. The surf has also dropped a lot and there was a shoulder high wave out on the open beaches. I wasn’t expecting miracles but I’ve been seriously down about the lack of surfing in my life at the moment – so took the plunge for the first time in 2 months.

I can’t remeber the last time I have been this long without surfing – I think my longest stint was about 6 months when I hurt my neck and shoulder when I was a teenager. I’m lucky to have been injury free since then  – for that I’m eternally grateful! Today I took to the sea at Mawgan Porth – the sun was out and rapidly descending to the horizon, the air was calm and still and there were plenty of people enjoying the beach and the beautiful clean waves on offer.

I braved the ocean with no wetsuit gloves – hoping I wasn’t going to develop a claw hand within the first 60 seconds. It was, to my surprise alright on the hands temperature wise and I didn’t get  the dreaded claw hand at all. The worst bit had to be walking back to the car to change – they were stinging a bit by then but all in all not that bad considering it’s January and the water is about as cold as it gets here. Goes to show that the weather conditions aside from the sea temperature really have an effect on your body temp when you’re out in the water. A good wetsuit also helps and Im very fortunate that the wonderful people at O’Neill look after me with their latest wetsuit technology!

Here’s a couple pics I took after my surf – such a beautiful evening. From the forecast it looks like we’ve got a bit of settled weather for a few days…who knows, maybe I’ll get another surf or two in!


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