I’ve been in Cali for a couple days now. On the day I arrived I picked up my van and headed north along the PCH to a sweet little campsite in the Leo Carillo State Park. After a long journey all I wanted to do was to get some sleep. I got an early night in the comfort of my sweet campervan (that’s named estephan). The campsite at Leo Carillio is beautiful. It’s in a tree filled valley and the smell of all the wildflowers and plants fills the air. The beach is also amazing and has some great surf when the swell is in the right direction.
After managing to get a good few hours sleep to try and get myself into some kind of routine and leave the jetlag behind I woke pretty early and took a stroll down onto the beach. The wind was picking up and beginning to blow strong offshore. I gave my friend Taylor a shout and before lunch we met up and took a trip into Ventura to check the waves and have a coffee. The wind was super strong and was making the waves in Ventura nearly impossible to surf, so we spent the afternoon venturing along the coast. We managed to find some shelter from the wind at the County Line beach. There weren’t many people out and I had a super fun first surf. It does feel a little strange to not be in boots, gloves and hood – but loving the extra bit of freedom in the warmer water!
I have been fortunate to be able to stay at Taylors house for a few days which is super kool. We have spent some time ver the weekend surfing at Malibu and having a browse around the surf shops in Ventura. The weather has been sunny, and there has been some wind which is quite unusual as it’s normall really calm here. There’s a bit of rain on the way for tomorrow and windy conditions for wednesday but hopefully I’ll be able to get plenty more surfing in!